The ViniCode™

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Monterey Wines and Experiencing Terroir

Many of us think of terroir as something nebulous. Wine aficionados love throw the word around saying things like, "This wine is a perfect product of the Piedmont terroir." What does that mean and does it make a difference to the casual drinker? I would argue probably not. BUT I do think that an understanding of the potential effects of terroir can be a fun learning experience.

First, we must realize that books, magazines and TV shows are no substitute for the tongue. And sipping one wine with dinner does not expose you to the "eureka" moment of a terroir tasting. So go to your trusted wine merchant and get them to suggest four wines whose taste profiles demonstrate the effects of terroir. Same grape, same price point, different conditions. Let me go further and say Monterey Pinots are just the ticket.

In the long history of winemaking California is still an upstart. Europe has had hundreds of years to figure out exactly which grape responds best to which geographical conditions. California is still in the process of working it out. Luckily, in this instant gratification world, we won't have to wait 200 hundred years to reap the benefits. So watch out Europe! Terroir is not just for France anymore!

I was fortunate enough to attend such a comparison tasting of four Monterey Pinot Noirs. (to get an in depth look at American Viticultural Areas and the production of wine in Monterey, see our blog by clicking here) What I have provided is my interpretation of that difference through the ViniCode™.

*If you are new to the ViniCode™, these categories were established for both reds and whites. The numbers denote corresponding intensity, but not quality. A wine with lower fruit and earth may be more subtle and elegant whereas a higher fruit and earth wine may be bold and powerful. An acidic wine can be mouthwatering and well defined and a great food wine while a round wine might be the perfect sipper. (For a complete look at the ViniCode™ click here.)

Click on the ViniCode™ image above to expand.

The ViniCode™ is about impression. The effect of wine in the mouth is not quantifiable. Each of us has our own sensitivities and preferences. And with these wines, we are all in luck. There is something for everyone. All of the wines were on the dry side, with the Morgan selection having less perceived sweetness. But just by a taste bud. Three of the wines leaned toward the acidic, with the Ventana Pinot being the roundest. It was also the fullest (perception of alcohol) of the wines. (Remember, alcohol has a sweetness to it that can moderate acidity). Paraiso was all about the fruit and the Pinot Noir from Morgan emphasized the oak. One grape, one region, four distinctive styles.

I have my favorite style and I encourage you to use the ViniCode™ and determine yours. To give you an example, I know exactly which one of these I would take to my friend Marianne's house. However, I know Clare would prefer a different style!

Once you have tasted your way through your four wines, you must verbalize your likes and dislikes. Look at your ViniCodes™ and try to pinpoint what about each wine you preferred. Now you are well on your way to freeing yourself from those ridiculous ratings, and your dependency on someone else's tongue when choosing a wine.

For more on Monterey Wine Country click here.

A Garden of Rosés

The more wines that I taste, the more I realize just how amazing the beverage is. I don't understand all of the chemical processes that take place during fermentation, but somehow those processes transform simple grape juice into a drink with more personalities than Sybil. As I have continued to sample the endless variations, I have learned to stop making those gross generalizations that used to come so quickly to my lips like "I don't like Chardonnay." And instead I always try to say, "I don't like this particular Chardonnay."

It bears repeating that Clare and I invented the ViniCode to describe wines, not to rate them. We want to leave that up to the taster. So with that in mind I would like to describe to you five rosés that were tasted at Muss and Turner's in Vinings, Georgia on Saturday, March 1. Every taster had their favorite and the reasons were as varied as the wines. But the ViniCodes should make it obvious that rosés, like every other wine are far too variable to simply dismiss them with a casual "I don't like rosés!"

Many thanks to Ryan, Katy and everyone else at Muss and Turner's for making these evenings so much fun. And to the Ehrhards, Mark and Fran, for always being there!

Vin du Bugey-Cerdon
"La Cueille"
NV
France
$14.00

This was the only sparkling example at the tasting. This rosé was definitely on the sweet side but had enough acidity to keep it defined and focused. None of the tasters detected oak but all of us picked up on the fruity, berry flavors present in the wine. This wine also did not exihibit any spicy or earthy notes and the bubbles kept it refreshingly light. If you like the delicious Italian sparkler Moscato D'Asti, then you will like this wine. The big difference between the two, is the Bugey-Cardon was crisper and more acidic. It would be great as an aperitif to greet your guests as they arrive and the low alcohol (8%) insures they don't get tipsy before the food arrives. (The ViniCode for the Moscato d'Asti was 3 7 1 8 2 2)

Santa Digna
Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé
2007
Chile
$8.00

The simple fact that this rosé was made from the Cabernet grape probably means that the producers want you to take it more seriously. And it was. It was also completely different from the Bugey-Cardon above. If you closed your eyes you would think that you were drinking a red wine. The Santa Digna was dry, but still had a well-defined acidity. Oak was certainly a part of this wine's character. It added a toasty quality... even the flavor of chocolate. It had a certain fruitiness, but the predominant flavor was that of the earth. The briary character of the Cabernet grape shone through and made this wine very interesting, adding complexity. Competing with the fruitiness were the effects of the higher alcohol content, 14% (the body). Looking for an alternative to red wine? Try Santa Digna.

Mas Carlot
Cuvée Tradition
2004
France
$9.00

Just as the Santa Digna was rosé's answer to red wine, Mas Carlot was it's answer to white. Very similar in tone and texture to Sauvignon Blanc, the wine was comparible to Santa Digna in dryness and acidity, but there was no detectible oak. As for flavor what really stood out was that grassy, herbiness so prevalent in New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs (under earthy). This wine was also lighter than the Santa Digna and this, plus the lack of oakiness made it feel more like a white wine. If you are a fan of Sauvignon Blancs, you would like Mas Carlot Rosé.

Sauvion
Rosé d'Anjou
2006
France
$12.00

And now for something completely different! Sauvion has produced what many people might consider the typical rosé. It was semi-sweet and semi-round. This seems to be the definition of rosé that most people carry around with them. Again, there was no detectible oak, but the earthiness, in this case a minty quality, was surprisingly refreshing. This worked well with the traditional rose fruitiness. This wine was quite light and could best be described as fun and frivolous. If you just love rosé and have not tried Rosé d'Anjou... then what are you waiting for?

Sutter Home
White Zinfandel
2006
California
$5.00

No rose tasting is complete without the ubiquitous Sutter Homes White Zinfandel. In the late seventies and early eighties, this wine was synonymous with pink wine in the U.S. The winemakers at Sutter Home have hit upon a style that is very user-friendly, and is insanely popular. This was the sweetest of the selections and also the roundest. What it lacked in crispness it made up for in sippability. Again we could not detect any oak, but the fruitiness of this wine is right out front and undeniable. This wine felt fuller than all of the other rosés save the Santa Digna due to it's 12% alcohol - high for a sweet wine. If you are new to wine, or have a friend who is not a wine drinker, introduce them to Sutter Home White Zinfandel.

Out of the Shadows

Michele Chiarlo
Barbera d'Asti
2004
Italy

The Italians are truly the masters of affordable food wines, and Barbera, when it is good, is one of their best representatives. Barbera is from the Piedmont region of Italy and not that long ago it was completely overshadowed. Its neighbor was the highly prized, and expensive blockbuster Nebbiolo. But legendary winemaker, Angelo Gaja, saved this grape by giving it the attention it deserved and brought it back from the brink of mediocrity. Now, Barbera is a lovely wine that is very budget friendly. Looking at the ViniCode™, the wine is relatively dry, although there is a little residual sugar that works nicely with this grape's natural acidity. It is that acidic edge that makes this wine interesting, gives it structure and makes it so wonderful with food. There is some oak that become more prominent as the wine warms, but thankfully, in this case, it merely enhances the sour cherry fruit and spicy earthiness. Barbera is typically a medium bodied wine and is great as a sipper. But at $13.00 and with a bowl of chili... We have a winner!

Fly Me to the Moon

Click on the image for a larger view of the ViniCode™.

We are trying something that we have never tried before. We decided to use the ViniCode™ on a sake. As with wine, using this system forced us to slow down and experience all of the layers that this beverage had to offer. Again, as with wine, the sake proved up to the challenge. But first, a little bit of information about this particular sake. Tokubetsu Junmai refers to the style of sake. This "Special Harvest" premium sake has had no alcohol added so it maintains a purity of flavor and delicacy that lesser sakes can't match. The Brewmaster says that it has a "touch of feminine grace" and this is especially apt because the Brewmaster is a woman - quite a rare thing in the world of sake.

Now let's take a look at the ViniCode. This bottle had a great balance of sweetness. You can detect the sugar, but gracefully so. Obviously it was very round and smooth. For quite some time, oak barrels have not been used in order to create the clean taste that comes from enamel coated steel tanks. But even though there was not a trace of "wood", there was a delicious yeastiness, very slight, but reminiscent of Champagne. As for fruit, it was like a flower garden in your mouth, all honeysuckle and violets. There was very little of what you would call earthiness (we put the yeastiness here). But my experience with sakes is quite limited and that may not be a characteristic that it possesses. Finally, the alcohol content is sake is quite high, 16-17%. So it has mouth filling body and weight that you might not, at first, assume. Overall this sake was as romantic as its name suggests, and a pleasure to enjoy.

For more information on this or a variety of other sakes, go to www.sakestory.com.

The Other White Wine

If you say the simple words Chateauneuf du Pape to most wines lovers you will see them start to spontaneously salivate. It is among the world's great wines. But did you know that there also a white version? Like its red cousin, white Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend which features grenache in the starring role, but in this case it is the white grape, grenache blanc.

Granted, the name Chateauneuf du Pape is a mouthful and the price, red or white, can be tough to swallow. So I want to suggest to you a less expensive but no less delicious option, Caves de Cairanne's Les Salyens. I just recently sampled this wine and was absolutely blown away. The aroma is like nothing I have smelled before, floral, creamy, tropical. This wine is no shrinking violet either. It is full bodied and slips down your throat like fine silk.

For more information about his and many other wines contact Teresa Ely at: baccofinewine@mindspring.com. To visit her site click here.

Buon Natale!

Most of you out there have probably heard of Asti Spumonte. It was a sweet sparkler that was very popular with the "sophisticated" college crowd of the 1970's. The Spumonte part has now been dropped in an effort to improve its image. Moscato d'Asti is a cousin of Asti. Both are produced in the same region in the Piedmont and from the same grape. But Moscato is slightly sweeter, with fewer bubbles and lower in alcohol. In Piedmont it is a tradition to have a glass of Moscato in celebration on Christmas. A Big Slice says let's bring that tradition to America. It is tough to find someone who will not like this wine. Even the most hardened wine snob will have a tough time holding back a smile when they sip this, for lack of a better word, innocent little aperitif. The wonderful thing about Moscato is that it retains just enough acidity to keep it fresh and youthful. It is a light as a whisper and the low alcohol won't go to anyone's head before dinner. When buying Moscato d'Asti, check to see how often these wines are restocked. The NV on the label (or a lack of date) refers to non-vintage. You want to seek out a recent bottle as these wines were not made to be aged. And we have tried many different produces and styles do vary slightly, some more acidic than others. But, though different, each and every one is a winner!

What is the ViniCode™?

What is it about wine that makes it so mysterious? Is it the vocabulary that confuses and confounds? Or those European wine labels that leave us wondering what exactly is in the bottle? Is there really any difference between a cabernet and a merlot? We believe that the most important thing you need to know about wine is how to buy a bottle you will enjoy. This is the magic of the ViniCode™.

The ViniCode™ is a quick system of wine evaluation that was developed by A Big Slice. It characterizes a wine in six steps. Using the ViniCode™ will increase your understanding of wine, and allow you to determine those characteristics you like in a wine and those you don’t.   
As we mentioned, The ViniCode™ is broken down into six sliding scales. These scales describe the wine you are tasting. Unlike the systems used today, it does not assign a rating. It is simply a description of that particular bottle. The final impression is left up to you. But the beauty of the ViniCode™ is that patterns of preference will emerge. And as you taste and ViniCode™ more wines, your sense of flavors and textures will only get more acute.   

Wine is a very complex    liquid. During fermentation there are many chemical processes at work that affect the taste and the texture of the resulting beverage. The final impression will be your reaction to how all of these flavors and textures work together.

A description of this complexity is what the ViniCode™ is all about. Now let’s look at the six scales.

The six scales of the ViniCode™ are:   
1. dry to sweet   
2. rounded to edged   
3. oak to no oak   
4. fruit to no fruit   
5. earth to no earth   
6. full to light   

To more fully understand the physical characteristics of each scale, and what you can expect, let’s talk about each one separately.   
1. dry to sweet   
The apparent sweetness of a wine is due to the residual sugar left after fermentation. The actual taste of sweetness is not just dependent upon the sugar, but it can be affected by the acid and the alcohol in the wine. A crisp acidic bite can temper sweetness, and alcohol itself is slightly sweet and can add to that sensation in the mouth. The opposite of sweet is dry in winese. As you taste, focus on the balance of the wine. Does the sweetness predominate? But be careful not to confuse fruitiness with sweetness. A wine can be fruity and dry. If you feel the wine is sweet, give it a 1, 2 or 3. A dry wine will receive a 7, 8 or 9. If you feel the wine is moderately sweet, or moderately dry, give it a 4, 5 or 6.   

2. rounded to edged   
The vintners are looking for the perfect balance of sweet and acid when they pick the grapes. If the grapes are too sweet, the resulting wine can be “flabby” and lack backbone. But if the grapes are too acidic, the wine will be “green” and unpleasant. This scale focuses on the presence of acidity in the wine. Don’t assume edged is a bad quality. New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs have just the right amount of crisp acidity to make them clean and mouthwatering. If the wine is edged give it a 1, 2 or 3. If it is round, give it a 7, 8 or 9. Somewhere in the middle receives a 4, 5 or 6.    

3. oak to no oak   
It is important that the ViniCode™ addresses oakiness in wines. It is such a pivotal component because many buyers will decide whether or not to purchase a wine based on this quality. Of course, oakiness comes from the barrels in which the wine has been stored. To seal these barrels, vintners will actually burn the insides of them. This will release chemicals in the oak that have the characteristics of vanilla, or burnt sugar. Over time, the wood will transfer some of its flavors and smells to the wine. The oakier the wine, the higher the number on the scale.   
smells and tastes to look for: caramel, chocolate, leather, tobacco, smoke, toast, popcorn, vanilla, burnt sugar   
4. fruit to no fruit   
During fermentation many aromatic chemicals are produced. This is why wine smells of so many fruits, but rarely grapes. Fruits can offer a wide variety of experiences. Think of the crisp bite of an apple, or the mellow firmness of a pear. Remember the actual fruit tasted is very subjective. One person’s raspberry is another person’s peach. We also include floral smells and tastes in this category. This is a simple sliding scale to determine the fruitiness of the wine.   

smells and tastes to look for: apple, apricot, berry, citrus fruit, melon, pear, plum, sour cherry, fig, jam, prune, honeysuckle, perfume, rose, violets    

5. earth to no earth   
Some wines will exhibit distinct smells and flavors of the earth. They can add to the complexity of a wine, or they can easily overwhelm the wine and become unpleasant. As far as earthiness is concerned, sometimes the culprit is a yeast called brettanomyces. Once it works its way into the vat, it is very hard to get rid of. It can destroy an entire season’s yield, or, if the wine is of very high quality and the winemakers know what they are doing, it can add an interesting damp earth quality to the wine. But earthiness also includes the aromas and flavors of herbs and spices. Zinfandel is known as a particularly spicy grape. Again, this is another simple sliding scale. Decide on the level of earthiness in the wine and mark it on the ViniCode™.   

smells and tastes to look for:   
asparagus, bell pepper, grass, mushroom, petroleum, chalk, moss, wet leaves, black pepper, cinnamon, clove, licorice, mint, nutmeg   

6. full to light   
This scale is a determination of the body or weight of the wine and not the color. Often body is directly associated with the alcohol content of the wine. There are many alcohols produced during fermentation. The most common being ethanol, the inebriation factor. But there are other alcohols present and they can cause off-flavors in wine if they are out of balance. These out of balance wines can actually burn as they are swallowed. It makes sense that they are referred to as “hot”. As a rule of thumb, wines made from warm climate grapes will typically have more alcohol than cool climate grapes. Hold the wine in your mouth and try to determine whether it is full or light. Does it seem weighty and intense? Then give it a 7, 8 or 9. Is it light and breezy? Then give it a 1, 2 or 3. Somewhere in the middle receives a 4, 5 or 6.   
Once you have recorded your impression in each of the six categories, bring down the numbers to the squares at the bottom of the scales. This is your ViniCode™ for that wine. After you have tried several wines, you can begin to pick out patterns. Do you tend to like wines that are rounded and oaky, or light and edged? Once you have an idea of what you prefer, you have a better shot of guiding your local wine expert to the perfect wine for you!

Comparing Grapes to Grapes

Click on the ViniCode to expand.
Comparative wine tastings do have their advantages. It allows you to make side by side evaluations picking out details and nuances that you might miss if only sampling one bottle. In this particular tasting, Clare and I knew the wines, of course, but we bagged and shuffled the bottles so we didn't know which glass contained which wine. Our purpose was to see if we could really detect the difference between Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. And these wines provided the perfect comparison. If you take a look at the VIniCodes™ you can see that as for dry/sweet, rounded/edged and oak/no oak they were pretty similar. The interesting parts are the fruit and earth categories. Notice that as Cabernet was introduced into the blend, the wines became progressively less fruity and more earthy. We enjoyed all of the wines but the one that we thought was the most interesting was the 50-50 blend. It contained the best of both worlds; the fruitiness of the Merlot and the complexity of the Cabernet. Also favoring this wine was its vintage. The Cabernet/Merlot blend has had a year longer to mature than the other two. But most importantly, Clare nailed the identities! We suggest that you try a tasting like this. Get two varietals and one blend from the same producer. This narrows the parameters of the tasting and allows you to focus your attention on one particular category of style.

The Perfect Marriage

Cape Town Select
Pinotage
13.5% alcohol
$9.00
2005

Part of the charm of wine is in the local color. In "winese" the correct term is terroir. It refers to the small variations in climate, or in soil content that can affect the final overall experience. Because some vines perform better in certain areas, grapes have become almost synonymous with certain regions. Think of Pinot Noir and you immediately think of Burgundy, or maybe Oregon. Think of Sangiovese and the hills of Tuscany spring to mind. Or equally Zinfandel and California. By the same token, "Pinotage" should always be mentioned in the same breath as South Africa.  This grape variety was actually developed in in South Africa by Abraham Izak Perold in 1925. Mr. Perold was looking to get the best qualities from the Cinsault grape (known as Hermitage in South Africa) and marry them to the best qualites of the Pinot Noir grape. He called the resulting cross bred variety Pinotage. (For those of you out there who are interested in a little trivia; a cross is made from two plants of the same species, whereas a hybrid is a cultivar from two different species.) Although there is a little Pinotage grown in New Zealand and the U.S., almost all is to be found in South Africa. As a matter of fact, any wine that is called a Cape Blend, must contain between 30-70% Pinotage.

For those of you out there who have never tried a Pinotage, then Cape Town Select is a wonderful place to start. The color is a beautiful deep rose. And the smell is fruity and smoky with hints of black pepper. Take a look at the ViniCode™. The wine was very dry and a little on the edgy side. It would be a great complement to many foods, cutting through grilled meats and creamy cheeses. The oakiness in the wine can best be described as smoky, not the usual burnt sugar or vanilla that can overwhelm lesser wines. It made us think that the winemaker had used barrels that have been very lightly charred. It added a definite richness to the wine. But the star of this glass was the fruit, big dark fruits like plums and berries. But don't think fruity and boring. The wine was nicely complex and interesting. Overall we really liked this wine and would certainly buy it again! For more information on this wine please check out their website here.

A Wedding, A Wine, A Weekend

Cesari
Amarone
14% alcohol
$36
2003

Amarone is one of Italy's great wines. In a country featuring the three "B's" of splurge wines (Barolo, Brunello, Barbaresco), Amarone, from the Veneto region, is a wonderfully unique choice. When people speak of the great grapes of winemaking, some names are repeated again and again. Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Chardonnay are, of course, the staples. They are known the world over for their characteristic quality. So you might be surprised that big powerful Amarone touts the not-so-common varieties of Corvina, Rondinello and Molinara. How can it be? These are not noble grapes!?! Well Amarone proves that most of the art of winemaking lies, not with the grape, but in the hands of the winemaker. In order to reduce those grape to their essence, Amarone producers dry them, intensifying their flavors and sugars. The result is a big, bold, fruity wine that is like nothing else. This 2003 version was absolutely delicious and without a doubt a fruit bomb as the ViniCode demonstrates. It was not the dryest wine we have ever tasted, but that probably added to the roundness. (Amarone's can be quite harsh if not allowed to age properly, or breathe before serving) All of the tasters could sense the presence of the oak, bringing another dimension to the wine but not trying to take over. Also adding to the complexity were the aromas and tastes of tobacco and mineral that complemented the fruitiness nicely. Amarones tend to be a mouthful and Cesari did not disappoint! If you have never tried an Amarone, I would say that the ViniCode breakdown here, is pretty characteristic. They are pricey, and if  you are a frugal wine purchaser, be sure and consult the wine expert. Your first experience with this wonderful wine should be a pleasant one. Like Venice, on the surface, this wine seems a little over the top, but if you are persistent you might be surprised at the subtle treasures that await. Thanks to Clare, Erik and Karin Aslaksen for a wine that rivaled a weekend! Happy First Anniversary!