Monday, 05 May 2008

Monterey Wine Country

MontereyIn the world of winemaking California has come a long way in a very short period of time. Europe's head start was not just centuries but in some cases millennia. During the Middle Ages most of the tedious work involved in viticulture fell under the purview of Monks who saw it as their holy duty to produce good wines. Through years of trial and error they slowly figured out which grapes performed better in which regions and under which conditions. The French system of wine classification, the Appellation d'Origine Controlée (A.O.C.) is still largely based upon the work of those medieval Monks.

Winemaking in California shares two things with that in France. There is a similar religious connection. Spanish Friars were amongst the first to produce wines in the state from their mission settlements. And secondly, the American Viticultural Area (or AVA) designation is similar to France's A.O.C. But what thrust California into the limelight was not their interpretation of tradition but rather their embracing of technology. And advances came fast and furious. But whereas technology can produce can produce good wines, tradition produces great ones and California is beginning to realize their potential lies in the perfect blend.

Even the most casual wine lover knows Burgundy, they probably know the Cote d'Or, and to take it a step further, maybe Nuits St. Georges as well. The same cannot be said of California, however. You may heard of Monterrey, but how about Arroyo Seco or San Barnabe? These are just two of the nine AVA designation areas within the Monterrey region. The purpose of the establishment of these areas is to provide the the consumer with more information about where and under what conditions the grapes were grown. This is the American version of terroir. The only problem is that outside of California these designations are virtually unknown.

As an introduction let's look at the Monterey Wine Country. As stated before there are nine appellations, areas that are different enough to warrant a separate classification. If you understand the characteristics of that area you can begin to predict the style of wine that area might produce. The region is most strongly influenced by the Monterey Bay whose waters stay a frigid 50 degrees in the summer. This sends a stream of cool air down through the valley that loses influence as the valley moves south. Northern Monterey can be quite cool and favors the cool weather grapes like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But in the south, heat loving varietals thrive such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. If you see it as a memorization exercise, it might seem daunting. But if you see it as an opportunity to try new wines, it can be a lot of fun!

Here is a brief rundown of the nine AVA's within the Monterrey region:

1. Monterey - This is the largest AVA in the region and extends the length of the valley. As such it incorporates many different microclimates and provides growers with a wide range of grape growing possibilities. Due to its massive popularity over half of the region is planted in Chardonnay.

2. Carmel Valley - This small appellation is located to the west of Monterey. With a temperature that can vary 50-70 degrees every summer day, the grapes planted in this region develop a rich complexity. Look for Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots, along with Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

3. Santa Lucia Highlands - This narrow strip of land on the western slopes of the Salinas River Valley was granted its AVA in 1991. The southeastern facing vineyards can soak up the morning sun and are cooled in the evening by the maritime breezes. Cool climate varietals abound, Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir.

4. Chalone - This very small appellation, east of the valley, has the oldest producing vines in the county. The area's unique soil composition of decomposed granite with clay and limestone supports Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc. The terroir favors the production of old world style wines.

5. Arroyo Seco - This AVA is located about midway down the Salinas River Valley, with a little offshoot in the protective surrounding canyon. The main part of the region favors white burgundy varieties, whereas the canyon protected area suits the bordeaux grape varieties.

6. San Bernabe - This is one of the newest AVA's in the region. There are close to 5,000 acres planted in the numerous San Bernabe microclimates. As such the area boasts plantings of 20 different varietals including Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling.

7. San Lucas - Located near the southern tip of the region this land was used primarily for cattle grazing until the 1970's when the first vineyards were established. The plantings are almost equally divided amongst Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

8. Hames Valley - This AVA is located at the far south of the Monterey region. The terrior is similar to its well-known neighbor Paso Robles and the wines produced here a decidedly new world. Look for the bordeaux varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

9. San Antonio Valley - This is the region's newest AVA only established in 2006. The summer days here can reach 100 degrees and the night can fall to the 50's. The heat favors big, bold reds made from Rhone Valley and Bordeaux varietals.

For more information on Monterey Wine Country click here.

To see the ViniCodes™ on four Monterey Pinot Noirs click here.

Thursday, 20 March 2008

Sharp Mountain has a Winner

Sharp_mtn_01I love surprises, especially pleasant ones. Clare and I were returning to Atlanta from Ellijay in North Georgia. We were trying to make it back in time for an appointment. About half way home we received a call letting us know that the appointment had been delayed an hour. At the same moment we passed by a sign pointing the way to Sharp Mountain Vineyards. Somebody was trying to tell us something. If it involves wine, we listen! So we turned off the highway and made our way to this little building beside which ran rows of grape vines.

Inside was Jan Rathgeb, the wife part of the this husband and wife operation. We started talking about and sampling her wines. Once again, let me take this moment to plead with those of you out there to support your local wineries. When we began to taste what the Rathgebs had done, we started to feel our own pride. Granted, Clare and I had nothing to do with these wines, but I was so proud of the efforts that my state was making, and surprised at the results.

Back to the story... Clare and I have been conducting wine seminars around Atlanta for the last several months, and in three days we were hosting a tasting of Chardonnays at Voila Market Cafe in Decatur, Georgia. After we tasted the Sharp Mountain Chardonnay we decided to include it. All of our tastings are conducted blind. This eliminates any preconceived notions and forces the tasters to describe the wines objectively.

When the Sharp Mountain Chardonnay was poured, the smell caught the tasters off guard. There is an old world earthiness to this wine. A little more, and it might be too much, but it added interest, something unexpected. The taste is all apples and pears. clean and acidic. Not the usual oak that I have come to expect in most Chardonnays. (Jan had informed us that she was not a fan of oaky wines - I love her for that.) The tasters guessed Australia, Burgundy... but the answer was much closer, Jasper, Georgia. When it was unveiled Donna Ruppert, the owner of Voila, exclaimed, "GEORGIA?!?"

Providence drove us to Sharp Mountain, we want to drive you there. Thanks to Jan Rathgeb for her hospitality and her delilcious wines! See you again real soon!

For more information about Sharp Mountains Vineyards, click here.

Monday, 17 March 2008

Thursday, March 20, 2008 Broadcast : Rosé and Paella

Sunday, 09 March 2008

Friday, March 14, 2008 Broadcast : Unoaked Sauvignon Blanc and Guacamole

Guacamole

Guacamole3 ripe avocados
1 small tomato
6-7 stems cilantro
1 small white onion
juice of 1 lime
pinch of salt

Slice avocado down the center, to the stone, all the way around, and twist halves to separate. To remove stone, chop a sharp knife into the pit and twist and pull. Set aside. Carefully slice avocado flesh down to, but not through, the peel, in a criss-cross pattern, and scoop out with a spoon. Immediately combine with lime juice and salt in a bowl or mortar and pestle, and mash to the consistency of cottage cheese.

Cut tomato into wedges and remove seeds. Chop flesh fine, and add to avocado.

Rinse and chop cilantro and add to mixture.

Chop onion very fine. Add to mixture.

Season with salt to taste. Place avocado stones into mix, remembering to remove just before serving (this keeps the avocados from turning brown). Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour before serving.

Friday, 25 January 2008

Come to Your Senses

Largevini
The ViniCode™ has officially arrived! We knew it was a wonderful system with which to review wines, but we also believed that its true potential lies as a teaching tool. In a joint effort between A Big Slice and the Atlanta Wine Club, we debuted "Come to Your Senses - A Sensual Wine Experience" at Voila Market Café in Decatur, Georgia. Come to Your Senses is a year long series of classes that progresses grape by grape through the ViniCode™. Session One featured the Riesling grape in all of its guises, from floral and sweet to oily and dry. The focus is not on a particular bottle, but rather style. Attendees will learn to stop asking for a varietal, and have the knowledge and confidence to ask for the taste that they prefer. Many thanks go out to Donna Ruppert of Voila, for providing a perfect venue, and to Steve Saenz and Kimberly Zwaagstra of the Atlanta Wine Club. For more information, click here.

Friday, 16 November 2007

And the Wine Spectator Wine of the Year is...

Cdp
Clos des Papes
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
98 points / $80
7,500 cases made
France

In the Southern Rhône's recent trio of great vintages starting with 2003, no other Châteauneuf-du-Pape domaine has produced better wines than Clos des Papes. Under Vincent Avril, quality has improved steadily, and the 2003 (97 points) was Wine Spectator's No. 2 wine in 2005. At 98 points, the 2005 is Avril's best wine yet, displaying an enormous core of fruit and minerality along with massive structure. The Clos des Papes red (the estate also produces a white) is a blend of 65 percent Grenache, 20 percent Mourvèdre, 10 percent Syrah and other grapes from 74 acres of vines around Châteauneuf. Avril keeps yields low, picks vineyard blocks separately for ideal ripeness and vinifies the destemmed grapes in ceramic-lined vats. The wine is aged in large wooden foudres for up to 12 months before the final blend is assembled.

To see the entire top 10 click here.

Thursday, 15 November 2007

Form Leaves Function in the Dust

Decanter
Everyone who knows me knows how budget minded I am. But every now and then something comes along that is just so aesthetically beautiful that it leaves the realm of function and becomes art. That is the case with these exquisite decanters from sculptor Etienne Meneau. Looking like the root system from some exotic crystalline plant, these decanters are a little over 23 inches high and will hold the standard 750 ml bottle of wine. They are available in the US exclusively through Dean and Deluca (click here to view the online catalog) but if you would like to see the decanter in action click here for the artist's own blog. Just so you know, I have put this on my wish list. Where is my rich benefactor when I need him?

Tuesday, 06 November 2007

A North Georgia Renaissance

There is a lot being said and written about the Dahlonega Renaissance. We all know from Georgia History that the foundation for the birth was gold. And the rebirth? Believe it or not... wine.

This got me thinking. What exactly is involved in a successful renaissance? For an ideal blueprint we should go to the mother of all renaissances, 15th Century Florence, Italy? At its simplest, it was based on three essential things; 1. great location - a prosperous republic in the heart of fertile Tuscany, 2. benevolent benefactors - the enlightened and highly tasteful Medici Family and 3. artistic expression - just to name drop two, the passionate Michelangelo and the exquisite Botticelli. Now, let's apply this blue print to 21st Century Dahlonega, Georgia.

1. Location
Picture Tuscany in your mind's eye. It evokes images of towered towns closely huddled under red tiled roofs, hills ringed with grape vines that stripe the landscape with their army perfect rows, and Italian sunlight that turns the leaves to gold. From what I have seen, you have also just described the incredible Montaluce, mid-October. It is rustic, earthy and amazingly authentic. Italian architecture inspired villas run the gamut from the façades of romanesque churches to the towers of san Gimignano. It is so authentic, in fact, that any moment you expect to hear opera coming from the windows.

2. Benefactor
Florence's House of Medici may not have created the renaissance, but it could not have happened without them. Montaluce's answer to the Medici is the Beecham Family. Their vision is to create a development that is, in every aspect, life-enhancing. Under their supervision Montaluce is combining gracious old world style living with new world ecological responsibility. Residents are invited to try their hand at making home grown wines and at the same time dabbling in organic gardening. The Beecham's philosophy must be, "Live well at home while making the world a better place."

3. Expression
Art comes in many forms. Montaluce's artistic expression happens to take the forms of food and wine. Florence gave the world the passionate genius of Michelangelo. Montaluce's gift to North Georgia winemaking is Stefano Salvini. A master of his craft, Salvini could give local wines a much needed sensual exuberance that it has been missing. But Florence also gave us the restrained genius of Botticelli. La Vigne Ristorante's Chef Steven Hewins hopes to prepare dishes that are as subtly balanced and delicately crafted as Botticelli's best. Despite all of these external influences, Montaluce's expressions promise to be regional, seasonal and unforgettably Georgian.

There you have it. A true renaissance consists of the highest standard of ingredients - yet still the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Montaluce's mix of prime location, conscientious benefactor, and masterful expression has the makings to surpass everyone's expectations. In this respect, beautiful Montaluce represents an honest to goodness, bona fide renaissance.

Monday, 15 October 2007

Odd Ogg, Odd Ogg, Half Turtle, Half Frog

Oddogg
OK boomers... which one of you out there had an Odd Ogg? I still remember the excitement I felt when I got this toy for Christmas. The object of play is very simple. Ogg sits on the floor at some distance from the player. Then you simply roll four brightly colored balls at Ogg, one at a time. When your aim is good and you hit him dead center between his outstretched arms, he comes towards you. But when your aim is off, he sticks out his tongue and rolls further away from you. I ask you, what's not to love about this toy?

I have tried and tried to find someone who remembers Odd Ogg. I spent way too much time trying to describe him to friends ony to have them roll their eyes and stare at each other as if I was on an acid trip! Then about ten years ago I was in an antiques store in Highlands, North Carolina and there he was. Perched up on a shelf, beckoning me with his hard, plastic embrace. I answered and bought him on the spot.

He is not mint condition or anything. He no longer works, but once again I have an Odd Ogg in my room! I have read accounts of people (specifically? a writer from USAToday) who speaks of being terrified of Odd Ogg. Wimp! I say. If you share my love of Odd Ogg or have stories of your own, I would love for you to share them! Anyone have an Ogg that still runs? And... anyone else have a blue eyed Ogg, I've seen a lot of pink eyed ones.

LIVE


SHOPPING !


Blog powered by TypePad

Tip Jar

Change is good

Tip Jar